Retrieve a Climbing Rope After a Rappel

In order to retrieve your ropes after a rappel you have to prepare in advance by setting up a one-rope or two-rope retrievable rappel. Use one rope if the rappel is less than half the length of your rope. Use two if it’s greater.

One-Rope Retrievable Rappel

1. Find the middle of the rope and place it directly behind the natural anchor. A natural anchor could be a tree or large boulder. The ends should fall on either side of the anchor.
2. Bring the ends of the rope around the anchor and tie them together using an overhand or figure-eight knot.
3. Throw the tied ends over the cliff.
4. Hook into both legs of the rope and rappel down using a safety Prusik.
5. Untie the overhand or the figure-eight knot once you reach the bottom. Retrieve the rope by pulling on only one end of the rope.

Two-Rope Retrievable Rappel

1. Join two ropes together with a square knot
2. Position the square knot so that it is directly behind the anchor.
3. Tie the ends of the ropes together with an overhand or figure-eight knot and throw them over the cliff.
4. Shift the square knot around the anchor and as close to the edge as possible without going over. You still need room to hook in below the square knot to rappel down.
5. Rappel down both ropes and untie the overhand or figure-eight knot. Retrieve the ropes by pulling the end where the square knot is closest to the edge, so that the knot doesn’t have to travel around the anchor and risk getting stuck.

Tips

You can use an artificial anchor if it is something you are willing to leave behind. You will have no way to retrieve it–just the ropes.

Gail Roberts is a Creative Writing graduate from UNCW who is married to a Marine Corps Combat Ski and Rock Climbing Instructor. She has no choice but to learn these things for the sake of her marriage.